Natural, natural origin… how are natural fragrances evolving?
100% natural, 95% of ingredients from natural origin… the multiple claims from brands in the fragrance space aren’t easy to navigate. Beyond being permitted by current legislation, the longevity and performance of ingredients can differ widely, and brands are evolving to better meet consumer expectations.
For hundreds of years, perfumes were exclusively made from natural ingredients, but chemistry introduced molecules in the 19th century that revolutionized the perfumer’s craft. Indeed, without aldehydes, there would be no Chanel No. 5 in 1921, and without vanillin, many perfumes would never have seen the light of day. However, vanillin, for example, —like many molecules—also exists in nature. Largely obtained through petrochemical synthesis, it can also be extracted naturally. Today, perfumers have access to numerous molecules labeled as natural, known as isolates. For consumers, the scent is the same—but not the price. “The same molecule can cost fifty or one hundred times or more,” explains Serge De Oliveira, a Perfumer at Robertet.
